EUROPE: Pastry and Cake eating ventures on a Konditorei crawl around Austria, Germany, Prague and Warszawa

Whenever I have an opportunity to travel around Europe visiting a "Konditorei" or even an old classical style cafe is near the top of my "to do" lists. 

When I was travelling in my late teens, after peering into the windows in places like Vienna, or Munich, and I would end up having a fancy cake or extravagant pastry for dinner at a fancy place before hopping on a train to another city where I would continue with this funny plan. 

Not only in big cities, a nice cake and coffee, and maybe also a pastry could be found in smaller places like Altdorf in Switzerland.

I especially like it when there are several others in the shop which tells me that the food is good, and also it gives me more time to make a better decision. It is pleasing to the eye to see all the bright colours and  tantalising designs and imagine what each thing tastes like.

It is even more fun to get advice on what to choose from the experts! I had an excellent Schwartzwalderkirschtorte by recommendation of a guy I met sharing a Vienna youth hostel room with me as we popped over to a lovely shop near by selling them.

My new love of the old classical looking cafe was born when my Polish friend living in Warszawa took me to a famous one which was on the "high end" side, complete with snooty clientele. The formal feeling in the place didn't intimate us. We took an intimate table and ordered something and during our lively conversation. He let me take a sample of his glorious Polish cake which was much better than my choice of cake. We laughed and giggled so much that it looked like we were misbehaving, but no one suggested anything to us and it was a memorable time!

While staying with my Czech friends in Prague, we went to an old classical cafe which might have been like being during the Hapsburg days! Green glass covered lights, tall ceilings and small intimate seating. Another place in Prague where my friend would take me was a humble neighbourhood sandwich shop where we both took delight in choosing many different varieties to taste and enjoy, sitting in the back room.

It is a challenge to find a similar environment when back home which always makes a good incentive to return to see my friends to enjoy and discover some more!

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Bologna: A few days in an Italian foodie city!

We arrived by train to Bologna in February and the temperature was posting 4 degrees C ( around 39 F) and coming from Roma Termini my first impression was that of a regional town and also my impressions moments after that was that it also was a University town. We felt a calmness strolling around the parks and green walking areas as well as admiring the monuments and artifacts of history scattered around this city.
                                                               

We could see flocks of University students crossing en masse when the traffic light allowed their time, but it was amusing to see people cross in different paths, avoiding the zebra crossing (cross walk) as if it didn't exist, with cars waiting patiently!  We chose to follow their style and walk in the same  manner! Bologna is supposed to have the refreshing reputation of being more open minded, more LGBT friendly and politically leaning to the Left! (bravo!)

We had an appointment with a blogging opportunity with a wonderful group, Blogville Emilia Romagna  http://www.blogville-emiliaromagna.com and a private tour of Bologna. Carrying our bags, we found out our meeting point was deep into the centre of historical Bologna and we raced through the longest covered arcade in the world, and found our guides waiting patiently for us.
                                                      

We enjoyed the eccentric feel to this city of red and white as their proud colours, and to know that it's unique character  of contradictions, politically, religious affiliations, and many others, which started long in the past still holds up to this day.
Our guide Simona was very knowledgeable and humourous! We enjoyed going through churches, squares, and even to a church were the controversial painting which upset people of the Muslim faith (The painting features Hell and the underworld, and the dead Prophet Mohammed, lying in Hell.) that we had to pass through security before entering the church. Later we went into a progressive cafe and had an interesting chat and learned more about    the quirky politics of Bologna and the equally quirky politics of the current Italian government they had. Simona told me that it was easier being a gay than it was being a woman in Italy! I asked her about being a lesbian in Italy and her eyes rolled with grief at me!
                                             

Bologna is known as a centre for very good food. We went down the foodie streets where one could buy many kinds of fresh local vegetables which were artistically arranged to catch one's eye and visited many small and unique shops which specialise in certain epicurean delights like handmade tortellini, truffles, pasta shops, different hams, and many other specialties.

(photo credits: http://www.blogville-emiliaromagna.com )

There was a large gastronomic complex near the foodie streets called "Eataly". This was like a bookstore and gourmet food store (with gourmet prices!) combined with every culinary dream about Italian food coming true.

We enjoyed wandering around back streets and seeing another leaning tower which was similar to the one in Pisa. When we walked through that whole area, it felt like we were stepping into some relics from Old Europe!
                                          

We were lucky to stay with a friend for that night in his cozy flat located on the edge of the historic part of Bologna. We enjoyed some nice conversation and made some instant tortellini which was fun, and inexpensive!

Our friend Nicolas, who met us about information for writing blogs also took us both for a lunch to sample different local specialties of Bologna, in a very local restaurant which was enjoyable.

Our time in Bologna was short but my eyes flashed around quickly around the old buildings, cafes, shops with cute looking gay guys, with perfect clothes and perfect hair, who are sales associates at the designer name clothing stores, to have a sneak preview of what we will see when we return to this beautiful city. 

We realise there are many special nooks and crannies around the city as well as the region waiting for us to experience, taste and write about on our next journey here.

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Krakow, Poland: Krakow- then and now

I first went to Krakow to attend Summer School, (szkoła letnia) at Uniwersytet Jagellonski to learn some Polish. Poland was, at that time, still under a deep slumber of many years of so called "socialism" ( Americans like calling it Communism, but it had no elements of communism at all, only lingering vestiges of fascism from Nazi and the wars which happened with Russians and other pain body which was left over in their psyche! )  and was a satellite state of the then USSR. I travelled to Poland by train from England and it was more of an adventure than it is today.

Krakow is one of the oldest cities in Poland as it dates back to around the 7th Century ( it survived all the wars more or less in better condition) and it also was the capital for a period of time. Krakow is more the spiritual heart of Poland, ( although recently becoming very touristy and commercial ) and is a centre for cultural life.

I can vividly remember a society which was restless and eager for some change. People weren't allowed to walk together in a large group, there were rations on items like meat, petrol for cars, and even for some chocolate! My aunt would have to queue up early in the shops for a long time to get basic things which she needed for the family. Oranges, Pineapples and mangoes were considered exotic fruits and were rare to be seen, if not seen at all!

There was a ubiquitous police presence ( milicija ) which loved instilling a sense of fear, and would stop people and check their identity just for the sake of it. One would hardly see drunken or rowdy behaviour on the streets during those years. I used to change money on the "black market" clandestinely as Polish złoty was a soft currency and I would trade dollars or British Pound Sterling, although illegal. with Polish people as I felt it was helping them to get things they needed with my hard currency I traded with them.

During those years the state controlled business and the shops had mediocre and functional products for daily use. Sales people in the shops and server persons in the restaurants were very brusque and when the item you requested wasn't available they would get very impatient with you. We would joke every time about  the phrase "nie ma" which means we don't have it , each time we talked about going out at night.  The advertising I would see on the streets would not be for things in the shops but rather political slogans and "propaganda" about Soviet and Polish friendship, Socialism and work, etc. Produce/ green grocers and small enterprise would be private at times. I remember overall the people were rather somber and impersonal. Their way of speaking was always very formal. The things we did do were at friends' homes, or going to the countryside for a picnic, visiting antiquities and old museums as there are many beautiful castles, historical parks, cultural venues of every kind to be seen.

Today, Poland is night and day difference from when I was there as a young adult. I went to Warszawa several times and watched Poland and the society change from a more or less state run society to a consumerist society, in a sense, joining the ranks with the rest of us, including all of the vices which are part and parcel of our consumer society. Although the state controlled society was prevalent for a long time, the Polish people seemed to have shaken that off quickly and, it seems it will be a forgotten part of their history soon. It seems faster cars, designer clothes, Mc Donalds kind of food, and every shopping rage which is happening around the world is in Poland too.

I saw a photo of present day Krakow, with a street full of shoppers and many shops and advertising signs everywhere. I suppose it is similar to old town in Prague with all the shops currently there, as I visit Prague several times since.
I heard a rumour that there is a shopping centre near the Holocaust memorial in Auschwitz now?

Although Polish society is still more conservative than most of Western Europe due to Roman Catholic and some lingering fascist laws from the Soviet influence in society, but now there are gay friendly clubs, gay bars, gay saunas and private accommodation and guest houses exclusively LGBT, which were unheard of not so long ago. Time will tell what any society will be like in the future, but hopefully Krakow will remain a city of character and a centre of culture, of some kind.

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Verona: Wandering back in time

Verona is a beautiful city straddled along the Adige river, in northern Italy. Supposedly one of the major tourist destinations in Northern Italy, having visited Firenze a few weeks before coming to Verona, and also coming during the tourist low season, we found Verona refreshing and in many situations our own personal city to wander through, as we enjoyed the city before the throngs of tourists arrived.

We were blessed to stay with our lovely friends who live in Verona, so we had a more intimate, insider's approach to the area, and experienced the local culture more intensely and better than if we had done on our own, or even with a tour for that matter.

Having visited Firenze earlier, we weren't visiting the museums and as for any of the "must see" attractions, if they were in the path of our very casual strolls around the city, then we visited them, but felt no pressure or obligation to find them and tick them off a checklist. Rather, we had a luxurious coffee at a chic cafe in the old town, a place where one would find a celebrity making an appearance at, getting lost down the old narrow street and walk ways; the kind of walk ways people look at in glamourous travel magazines with enviable wishes to go there themselves, and best of all, with no tourist crowds!

We wandered into quaint wine shops where the wine merchant would get nervous as we spent a long time studying the wine bottles, ( Chris is a true wine aficionado), wander into cathedrals where a concert would be playing, and when we felt a bite to eat, wander into a friendly shop and sample local specialties, which we had friendly and kind assistance once the owner of the shop came to know we spoke English, it was her opportunity to practice some with us.

Having stayed with local friends in the city, we were taken to their favourite places in the city as well as around the environs away from the cultural attractions like a Roman  town Soave nearby, which was indeed very fun to wander those ancient streets in that town as the sun set.

Some of the fun attractions included a visit to a local olive oil factory where we got a personal tour from the owner as well as a sampling of locally grown and pressed olive oil,

 a local winery which had amazing wine, an all you can eat pizzeria , ( all you can eat for 10 Euros) which gave opportunities to meet our friends other friends, as this pizza place had a party atmosphere. We had a great time looking over our friend's shoulder as he cooked a famous noodle dish, and  since we were hanging around his informal and friendly kitchen, he would open up favourite special foods which are found only in the Verona region and have us sample them. Other friends of his would come over bringing some of their own home made specialties and contribute them to a huge banquet which we all thoroughly enjoyed, of course with plenty of wine flowing, the next morning taken to a famous pastry shop for breakfast and coffee! We are extremely grateful to experience everything from our friends there.

Being taken to a local Verona Farmer's market was a special treat as we came to know how local people supported the local farmer's in the community. We bought some goat meat salami, some local cheese and our friends bought organic vegetables, as we continued to wander and learn where local food in Verona comes from.

Verona, although being famous and old, was a very clean city, and felt like a giant museum. One could immediately sense that people were proud of their city, taking great care to keep it up and looking its best.  Verona had a good transport system,but since we were staying near the old city with our friends, and the city having a compact feeling, we chose to do how local people got around, and that was by walking. We walked everywhere and enjoyed every moment of  who and what Verona had to show us!

( We are enacting the part of Romeo and Julliet at Julliet's "grave")

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FUNKIE FOODIE 2: Jim's Funkie Foodie cravings- Poland

Funkie Foodie 2:  Jim's Funkie Foodie Cravings.

This section's food cravings are like walking down memory lane. My loving grandmother and mother have moved on, and I am currently living far away from anywhere where I could remotely find Polish food. My grandmother and mother would both lovingly prepare foods like you will see below, by hand. I remember as a child during special events as well as just common times enjoying their cooking. Luckily, I looked over their shoulders enough to cook  some of these basic favourites, but not nearly as good as theirs would have been like. Each time I go back to Poland I enjoy the opportunity to satisfy these special food cravings. Maybe I can get you hooked also after you finish reading this blog?

Gołąbki- this is a real traditional favourite, and my grandmother and mother made this often. I also can make this well when I have the time and patience! When I was younger and was vegetarian I would substitute the ground meat for red salmon and mix with rice! Equally wonderful I must admit! (but not traditional)

Tongue sausage. Very unique and quintessential Eastern European flavour, I remember getting this wonderful cold cut in my sandwiches when I was a school boy! I miss it!  ( when my father was making the sandwiches he would put mustard on it but I didn't like it that way)

Czarnina- this is a classic soup with the main ingredient being duck's blood. My mother went to a farm who raised ducks to specially get the fresh blood from a duck to make this soup. It also contains plums and, at times, noodles. I remember it being served during Christmas.

Kielbasa- Almost everyone knows these, but they are better than the ones found in the usual supermarket. I like the skinny smoked ones, and also a kind of sausage made from blood called Kiszka. (I can't find a photo of that) but my mother would make that frequently when I was a kid. I loved it!

Pierogi. My grandmother taught me how to make it all by scratch! when I want to impress my friends at a dinner I make them. When I was a vegetarian I would put plums, also cheese, blueberries, and, traditionally, meat or potato.

Oscypek- My family comes from Podhale area in the Tatra mountains of southern Poland. This cheese is a very traditional ( from 1500s !)  smoked salted sheep milk cheese. Traditional carvings are in the cheese shapes from the carved wooden mould they were made from. They hang over the fire area and slowly season from it!  I love this cheese and whenever relatives or friends would return from Poland, they would bring some back.

Polish head cheese. I really like this meat also. I had it in sandwiches, for lunch time, and have fond memories of the taste.

Easter Lamb- My mother and grandmother would make this for the festival and would decorate it in varying ways, ( sometimes they would use shredded coconut and a raisin for the lamb's eyes) I miss those occasions.

This is a strange but yummy concoction of beets and horseradish. Usually eaten around Easter ( there is a white version of this too). The taste is "unique" to say the least, but it helps us remember the suffering Jesus Christ did for us during his death. ( he had some bitter thing to eat on the cross)

Made of beets. I make my own too (but I omit the eggs in  this)

Polish porter beer- this beer is a perfect accompaniment to most of the food I mentioned above. It is chocolaty, coffee back rounds and nice! It has a nice foam head when poured into a glass.

Sliwka- a wonderful dried plum covered in dark chocolate! There seems also to be some taste of alcohol inside it. Wonderful! I can finish a box of these in one day!

Kołaczki-  I can remember my grandmother making these by scratch! She would make them for all the relatives and her neighbours. I remember her rolling out the dough, and the back room had trays of these all around the room, and I would sneak and eat a couple- maybe she never noticed. I miss her so much. She passed at age 95. My grandfather passed at age 99 !

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Beer/Porter: Żywiec Porter. Good taste and good feeling!

This is one of my favourite porters. Żywiec is a town in southern Poland. It would go really well with some bigos or some smoked kiełbasa. I couldn't wait to have some as soon as I opened the bottle. When this Polish porter is poured, it comes into the glass very dark but but opaque brownish/black in the glass with a lovely foam head! I could definitely taste chocolate, maybe some caramel and coffee grinds- and the more I taste it, the more of a good feeling I get!  Even after I had finished the whole glass I was able to sniff the burnt coffee charcoal aroma left behind! okrzyki!  na zdrowia

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ITALY: Some of our favourite "foodie" things and the places we had them

This was wonderful! It is a sweet replacement to butter, or jam, or Nutella

Jim is a  dark chocolate addict so we tried this in a cafe in Madrid, and whenever we went to a cafe we ordered this with churros ( a long fried  doughnut, there was also a doughnut rolled shaped like stick with powdered sugar on it) which I dipped in the hot cocoa before eating it! To die for!!

The aroma when entering this claustrophobic shop  in a small town in Castel Romagno area ( where the Pope has his holiday home) was so wonderful!  We also go "educated" in different salami and dried pork items as we sampled each one further back in the shop. 

On a Sunday morning stroll, we visited these local market sellers which occupied the road in a section of the town, making that street have no cars, only Sunday walkers! Again, more sampling of different cheeses, meats, salami;  regional favourites all locally made

 Our couchsurfing boy party where we went to a fabulous foodie restaurant. The head chef is on the left.

Chris is a wine connoisseur, and we visited a very local, wine making depot for the neighbourhood.

Lovely local cheese. We brought back some Pecorino cheese as a souvenir reminder of Italy, and we are still using and enjoying it!

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COUCHSURFING 102: Our experiences and fun with couchsurfing, so far !

COUCHSURFING and our experiences with it so far. We have met some really kind and fun people who generously open their home and hospitality to us (we are total strangers!) and we all end up becoming new friends! So far, we had couchsurfing experiences only in Spain, Greece and Italy, but since we enjoy meeting people and hearing their stories, we plan on trying this in more countries around the world as we continue along our life's journey.

For the most part, we have stayed with guys throughout our journey as we felt more comfortable staying with those in a more like minded environment. Most of the places ranged from city apartments which had a "frat boy" feel with condoms on the floor, a vegan diet-commune feel with an unknown number of guys living there, and male bonding on the terrace passing to each other and smoking the "green cigarette" (I personally love this kind of place!)  with many cats, to classical looking flats which interior design are so beautiful that one would find their flat featured in a "Better Homes and Gardens" Magazine. (This is a magazine with impressive photos and stories which feature beautiful living environments). We also broadened our horizons more when we experienced the hospitality of a very lovely heterosexual couple in Italy. We had experiences which we will never forget, and will cherish forever!

Many a time, our hosts generously gave us his own bed in his bedroom, and also the keys to the flat which we can come and go according to our ( jetlagged ) time zone! It was especially wonderful because during the winter, it gets dark and COLD quickly, and the thought of getting out of the cold in a city which we aren't very familiar with is welcoming, especially as we watch shop keepers lock their doors and the streets get lonely, it is wonderful to come back and get a head start at cooking up a dinner which our host would enjoy with us, of course accompanied by a bottle of wine! We also enjoyed a Sunday morning stroll , as well as being a team in cooking up a Sunday brunch! Sunday brunch included many wonderful things to try, all of them home made! Before brunch we had a "starter" ( a favourite "green" cigarette, which we passed around in our interested smoke circle!) which enhanced the flavours of Sunday brunch, as well as all the colours of the food items! (Red and orange pizza seems to upset my eyes after a few puffs of "green" before brunch- ha ha ha!) as well as enhancing any fun music also being played during the time!
                                                                     

Our couch hosts also took us, along with their own friends, on fun activities such as thermal baths soaks, a mini concert, favourite places to try wine and local specialties shops for "foodie" things made to local tradition. We enjoy this very much. They ordered things which we would never know how to choose, and how to make the feeling of our group so wonderful. A kind couch host in Athens took me out at midnight for a drive to experience the nightlife, our style, which we would not know how to do for ourselves!

I am grateful for our being blessed , as we continue on our journey, affording opportunities for us to bless others on their life journey!

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